Muffler length is limited to a maximum of 17" case length. Both Walker Super Dynomax and Flowmaster mufflers work equally well.

Note: On some vehicles, with 3" Pipes, you may have to notch the Qtr. Panel just a little where the tailpipe comes down between the Qtr. Panel and Leaf Spring.

INSTALLATION:

1. First begin by reading the instructions to get a good overview.

2. Remember, safety first. Be sure vehicle is secure and remember that pipes can cut (fingers and hands).

3. Compare hardware with the list above to be sure you have everything before beginning.

4. Begin by mounting Collector Reducers on end of Headers. You may want to note now if your headers seem to be pointing straight back. IF one or both aren't, they will present problems when it comes time to install the Headpipes later. IF you're not sure, then you can temporarily mount the Headpipes onto the reducers and see how they do. If one wants to cross over into the driveshaft at an angle, then this is telling you the header is pointing inward. If the Headpipe wants to point outward away from the center of the vehicle as it goes back toward the muffler, then this is telling you the header is pointing outward. The header could even be pointing downward or upward. If one wants to cross over into the driveshaft, but the long end (going to the muffler) is parallel to the center of the vehicle, but still under the driveshaft, then this is telling you that that Header is "tucked" up closer to the center of the vehicle more than is typical. The Headpipes are designed so as to allow you to compensate for some error, but if it is much, then you will be faced with adapting. Our "No-Weld" Collector Reducers can often help straighten things up as well as our "Split" Headpipe can help with a Header being "tucked" up closer to the center of the vehicle. Sometimes it will take more than this. If you are not sure, give our Tech Dept a call. We can offer suggestions.

5. Now lets begin with the tailpipes. They must clear the suspension and the rear end, so they must be positioned first. In some situations it may be possible to use existing hangers, otherwise use what is provided with the kit. You will need to position the hangers for the mufflers directly above the rear of the muffler spout. Both 1^st & 2^nd Generation vehicles will require hanging in front of the fuel tank where the pipes join together. The "L" Bracket

along with the Rubber Hanger (and Nuts/Bolts/Washers) is provided for this. Some vehicles do not have this existing mount and you will have to improvise.

1^st Generation & 2^nd Generation: On some installations, you may find it necessary to trim off an inch or so at the end of the first (front) section of the tailpipe where it slips into the rear or back section of the front tailpipe. This will allow the rear section to be moved inward a little to clear the quarter panel AND/OR it allows the front section to be moved inward toward the center of the vehicle for better alignment with the rear muffler snout.

1^st Generation: The hangers for the end of the tailpipe can be placed anywhere in the area behind the rear wheel, probably before the pipe comes down beside the leaf spring. IF the rear section of each tailpipe has a bracket welded onto it, then just ignore it. It is used on 2^nd Gen. Vehicles.

2^nd Generation: The bracket that is welded onto the tailpipe should mount into an existing body mount behind the wheel.

6. Mount the muffler onto the front of the tailpipe. You may want to temporarily secure the mufflers with something placed under them. This will allow you to devote full attention to determining the correct length for the Head Pipes. Note: On 1^st Generation vehicles -- using the longer 3-Chamber Flowmaster you will have to cut off much of the front of the tailpipe and some of the rear snout of the muffler leaving very little to work with. This most likely will require welding the tailpipe to the muffler. Using the Walker Super Dynomax Muffler (16" long) you will have to do some cutting, but normally should not have to do any welding together.

7. Mount Collector Reducers onto end of headers if not already done so.
8. With mufflers in place, mount the Headpipes onto the Collector Reducers and determine how much you will need to trim off the Headpipe. You may trim off the end of the Collector Reducer also. Remember, measure and re-measure as it's easier to trim a little more off than to add because of trimming too much. If the Headpipe does not reach far enough back, then you will need to do one of two things. Add an extension between the end of the Headpipe and the muffler (we have the extensions) or for a cleaner installation, we have the HL series Head Pipes that are 10" longer than the standard length. Head Pipe length is rarely an issue on the F-Body vehicles.

9. Fine-tune the fit. Once you have trimmed the Head Pipes for proper fit, then begin "fine tuning" the overall fit of the system. Do not tighten clamps until you have everything fitting. Consider suspension movement while fine-tuning. Now, its time to consider mounting the Balance Tube Kit. (This may be a project for a professional if you don’t have welding equipment handy or the welding skills or a buddy with such). Both kits are installed the same way. It is the only part of our system which needs to be welded and luckily this is done last after everything else is in place. Ideally, to determine the best mounting location, you will need to spray a line of paint on the side of the head pipes from the collector reducer back approximately 20". With the vehicle running, you can determine at what point the paint stops burning off. This is where you want to mount the Balance Tube. If for some reason there is an obstruction prohibiting this, then mount it as close as possible to that point. We have found that usually mounting 8 – 16" from the collector works fine.

10. Now that you have determined where to mount it, you need to determine the length. Remember to allow for the curvature of the Headpipes as you will want to have some curvature on each end of the Balance Tube. (With Kit B, first install the short piece of pipe into the longer piece and maybe hold together with the Band Clamp – now you know the overall length and determine everything just as if it were Kit A). Remember, better to cut too long than too short.

11. Now cut the holes in the side of the Headpipes. They do not necessarily have to be as big a diameter as the size of the Balance Tube. Do not allow parts of Balance Tube to protrude into the Headpipe as this will impede flow and be counterproductive. IF hole is cut a little too big OR if Balance Tube is cut a little short, you can "Fill Weld" in the gaps to make fit. It will be a good idea to paint the welds with some Hi-Temp Paint as this will help protect it from rust.

** Muffler Warranties: Please remember to keep your invoice as this will help greatly with any problem one might have.  Generally, we have found that very rarely is there a problem with either the Flowmaster or Walker Mufflers.