GM A-Body Non-Header Instructions

 

For:

Buick 400, 430 & 455 Manifolds
Olds 455 w/442 Manifolds
Pontiac Ram Air / HO Manifolds

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ALL '64-77 GM A-BODY SYSTEMS:

Included with this kit are the following:

2 Downpipes Pipes which mount to the Exhaust Manifold. Includes 2 mounting flanges.
The Buick and Olds Downpipes come with (2) 2-Bolt flanges.
The Pontiac Ram Air / HO Downpipes come with either 2 or 3-Bolt Flanges as ordered. These flanges may or may not work on the Ram Air / HO manifolds. If you have the original flanges, use them although you might have to "hone" them out just a little.  Using the original flanges, however, does take away some of the installation flexibility.
2 Head Pipes Pipes that come from mufflers forward to the Downpipes. (43" long)
2 Tailpipes Pipes which go over rear end and exit at rear of vehicle.      (Total length of each is approx. 50½" measuring in a straight line from one end to the other. Two-piece tailpipes for '64-67 and '73-77 will be longer.)
'64-67 (except '66-67 Chevelle) and all '73-77 is a 2-piece tailpipe. The first main section is a tailpipe with a straight end and the other section is a shorter section (approx. 15") that slips onto the end of the first main section. That first main section can be cut-to-length so the end of the tailpipe exits in the desired location.
8 Clamps 4 for the head pipes and 4 for the tailpipes. (The 2-piece tailpipes will have 2 extra clamps, although they may not be needed depending how you locate the hanger assembly)
2 Swivel Hangers Used to hang the mufflers. Depending on vehicle, holes may need to be drilled in body behind rear seat.
2 Tailpipe Hanger Assemblies (See Photo of Hardware.) These are installed on the outside of the frame rail. Usually existing holes can be used. When using the 2-piece tailpipe or when installing tips through bumper or valance cut-out, it may be necessary to drill new holes for proper placement.

Buick Non Hdr Sys Layout.JPG (30423 bytes)NOTE: While we have made every effort to design this system to fit most applications of the A-Body vehicles, we cannot allow for every single variation without raising the price considerably. We know that from time to time situations will arise which will not be accounted for. To help minimize inconvenience to you, we recommend that you do some measuring, etc., before "tearing off" the old system. This way, if you have one of the exceptions, you will not have 'down time" if your vehicle is a daily driver. This will enable you to obtain the necessary parts to complete the installation.

Muffler length is generally limited to a maximum of 20" case length. Both Walker and Flowmaster muffles work equally well, however, the mufflers used need to be offset entrance and offset exit. A center exit sometimes can be made to work, but the tailpipe alignment will be less than ideal.

INSTALLATION:

1. First begin by reading the instructions to get a good overview.

2. Remember, safety first. Be sure vehicle is secure and that pipes can cut (fingers and hands).

3. Compare hardware with the list above to be sure you have everything before beginning.

 

4. Begin by mounting the Downpipe to the Exhaust Manifolds. If you are using the Ram Air/HO manifold flanges that originally came with the Manifold, because of their overall length, flexibility in positioning the Downpipe is unfortunately limited. Occasionally this will mean "tweaking" the Downpipe just a little to get the proper angle in positioning the end of the Downpipe relative to the Transmission crossmember. The front of the Head Pipe will eventually mount to the end of the Downpipe.

5. Now lets begin with the tailpipes. They must clear the suspension and the rear end, so they must be positioned first. In some situations it may be possible to use existing hangers, otherwise use what is provided with the kit. You will need to position the hangers for the mufflers directly above the rear of the muffler spout. The hangers for the end of the tailpipe can be placed anywhere along the outside of the frame. Often existing holes can be used, but you may need to drill new ones. If you are using 2-piece tailpipes, then if you place the tailpipe hanger assembly at the joint, then you can eliminate using one of the U-bolt clamps and have a cleaner-looking installation. Don't worry about exact length of the 2-piece tailpipe at this time. Wait until you begin "fine-tuning" the fit.

6. Mount the muffler onto the front of the tailpipe. You may want to temporarily secure the muffler with something placed under them. This will allow you to devote full attention to determining the correct length for the Head Pipes.

7. With mufflers in place mount the Headpipes onto the ends of the Downpipes. When trimming you may need to also trim the end of the Downpipe for best overall fit. Remember, measure and re-measure, as it's easier to trim a little more off than to add because of trimming off too much.

8. Fine-tune the fit. Once you have trimmed the Head Pipes for proper fit, and then begin "fine tuning" the overall fit of the system. After you have trimmed the appropriate length, THEN go back to the tailpipes and begin working forward again, this time fine-tuning the fit. Do not tighten clamps any more than necessary until you are through.

9. Check for leaks upon completion. Normally good sealing occurs with clamp type installations. However, occasionally we run into a situation were proper sealing is difficult to obtain. If this is the case, first try tightening the clamps a little more. However, with a lot of tightening, it is possible for the pipe to start crimping or the U-Bolt to "break". OR, try relocating the clamp forward or backward from its present position and re-tightening. Another possibility is trying "muffler cement" which can be purchased from any muffler shop, or auto parts outlet, or us. If there is excessive clearance between the two pipes or muffler and pipe, then it may be necessary to cut one or more slots in the outer pipe to allow it to compress further for better sealing. Try to rotate clamps so the bolt part is not pointing downward for a cleaner looking installation.

10. Now, its time to consider mounting the Balance Tube Kit. (This may be a project for a professional if you don't have welding equipment handy or the welding skills or a buddy with such). Both kits (A & B) are installed the same way. It is the only part of our system which needs to be welded and luckily this is done last after everything else is in place. We recommend mounting the balance tube immediately after the transmission crossmember.


11.
Now that you have determined where to mount it, you need to determine the length. Remember to allow for the curvature of the Headpipes, as you will want to have some curvature on each end of the Balance Tube. (With Kit B, first install the short piece of pipe into the longer piece and maybe hold together with the Band Clamp – now you know the overall length and determine everything just as if it were Kit A). Remember, better to cut too long than too short.

12. Now cut the holes in the side of the Headpipes. They do not necessarily have to be as big a diameter as the size of the Balance Tube. Do not allow parts of Balance Tube to protrude into the Headpipe as this will impede flow and be counterproductive. IF hole is cut a little too big OR if Balance Tube is cut a little short, you can "Fill Weld" in the gaps to make fit. It will be a good idea to paint the welds with some Hi-Temp Paint as this will help protect it from rust.

 

 

 

 

 

Click here to see photos of mounting hardware       

** Muffler Warranties: Please remember to keep your invoice as this will help greatly with any problem one might have.  Generally, we have found that very rarely is there a problem with either the Flowmaster or Walker Mufflers. 

X X The above True Dual System is intended for Track or Off-road use only on Pollution Controlled Vehicles X X

Email: torkertwo@torquetechexh.com

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This page last updated:  12/12/2006

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